/LEE ROACH SS16 /MEN
BY INVITATION ONLY
A hard copy invitation is required for entry
/LEE ROACH SPRING - SUMMER 2016
13 JUNE 2015
OLD CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS | LONDON
Lee Roach Spring–Summer 2016 is an exploration into elimination and abstraction through construction as part of a discourse between exterior and interior, traditional and contemporary.
The collection features sections of garments, removed and re-appropriated to reveal and enhance the cut and construction within layers, as well as multi-pockets and brand signature strap fastening elements that can be integrated with numerous garments. These elements enable, through the user’s interaction and choice of application, multiple aesthetic propositions and functions for the utilitarian pieces.
A series of white cotton garments embodies the collections exploration into abstracted elements, whose form is drawn from the traditional formal tailoring interiors, with the chest pieces serving to provide utilitarian style pockets and structure echoing the original inspiration of a tailor’s canvas.
Lee Roach’s fundamental brand ethos of transparency within the construction process is revealed for Spring–Summer 2016 through elimination and abrasion. Articulating the dialogue between interior and exterior, oversized grey Alcantara and black leather are constructed as raw, unlined jackets with the elimination of selected sections, while a hand sanded impression treatment is applied to garment washed Japanese denim, exposing the interior construction through abrasion.
Cupro, traditionally used as interior lining, is garment washed and used as the exterior fabric, presenting a lightweight formal summer alternative.
Further highlighting the process of elimination and garment construction, white Alcantara pieces are conceived using a process that eliminates the use of machines. Individual pattern pieces are hole punched and constructed by hand using a single material.
RE – SERIES 01
15 pairs of surplus military trousers are re-constructed from 20 trousers and 5 jackets, through a process of deconstruction and displacement. The multi panel and displaced vertical seams highlight the various effects of time through wear, while the use of surplus garments creates a direct contrast with the brand’s modern and clean aesthetic. Each pair of trousers is an edition of 1, unique in its shape, construction and composition, dictated by the original military trouser.
The site-specific installation, created in collaboration with artist Filippo Maria, presents the collection in a symmetrical composition that expands the building’s circular skylight through its reflection on a mirror platform. The use of a mirror surface eludes a sense of infinity through reflection, allowing the sky to penetrate, enhancing the interior and exterior dialogue. The use of raw metal for the platforms adds to the 19th Century’s architectural structure an enriching juxtaposition of times, highlighting the discourse between traditional and contemporary. In contrast, the weightlessness and seemingly floating frame of the structure echoes a sense of suspension in time, further enhanced by sound temporal continuum in which visual impressions are embedded and amplify the plasticity of the figure.
The installation features 17 Bonaveri mannequins from the new male Schläppi Noble Collection, chosen for their sculptural characteristics. The collaboration with Bonaveri, themselves renowned craftsman, echoes the brands commitment to craftsmanship and quality. The use of static mannequins, as a format for Spring–Summer 2016, is intended to allow the viewer to closely interact and observe the garments construction and finishing without the restraints otherwise imposed by time and motion.
MODEL Alban Adam | STYLING Barbara Grispini | INSTALLATION ARTIST Filippo Maria [The Butchers] | MANNEQUINS Bonaveri